Wine tasting and Parque Nacional de Timanfaya - Lanzarote
La Geria wine region in Lanzarote is situated in the volcanic mountains, just outside Timanfaya National park. Far from the typical image of green rows of grape vines growing in fields, this blackened land is not where you would expect to find vineyards. But the farmers here have been growing grapes here for centuries. The volcanic soil has some unique qualities which make it perfect for the job, its ability to lock in water for long periods of time means the crops are kept hydrated even though the island has very little rainfall. Whilst the black lavastones (or picón) also creates a great layer of insulation against the colder nights.
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To protect their vines from the winds that blow in high up in the mountains, the farmers protect them by planting the grapes in dips in the ground which are also shielded by small, stone, semi-circle walls called Zocos. As you drive towards any of the wineries in La Geria you can see these Zocos dotted all over the sloping landscape surrounding you.
As our excursion tour through Parque Nacional de Timanfaya came to its end we found ourselves stood in the wine tasting room (or El Salon de la Cata) of El Grifo Bodego, winery. A large white washed room with dark wooden beams across the ceiling. Bottles of wine lined the shelves of a rustic looking side cabinet and barrels stood in corners. An archway led to the bar beyond, which was lined with 3 silver trays of wine ready for us to taste.
The first was a sweet red wine made from Listán Negro grapes. The wine was a deep red almost purple colour with a smooth and fruity taste. The second was a semi-sweet Malvasia wine, which has an extremely sweet and fruity taste. The third and final wine to try was also made from Malvasia grapes which are the most commonly grown variety in the La Geria region of Lanzarote and produces both dry and sweet white wines. This dry Malvasia white was light both in colour and taste and by most in the room the favoured wine offered that day.
Although only 3 different wines were available during the tasting, the winery offers many varieties from red to white and from dry to semi-sweet and sweet. One of many wineries in the region most of the wine made in La Geria is distributed across the Canary Islands, as one of the largest El Grifo wine can also be found in the UK, Spain, USA and Germany.
Sipping on the wines, and watching the legs of the alcohol run down the inside of the glass, the room was filled with a buzz of chatter, as we talked about the amazing day that was now nearing its end. It started as we climbed on the tour bus, the driver winding his way up towards Timanfaya National Park, whilst the charismatic tour guide, who told us to call him George (Clooney) began talking about the culture and heritage of the island. As the journey continued George pointed out the window towards what looked like an intricate weather vane which he explained was a piece of wind art by César Manrique, the artist who also designed El Diablo, the symbol of Timanfaya National Park.
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The first stop on the trip was a demonstration used to show that, despite the majority of the volcanoes no longer being active, there is still an enormous amount of heat beneath the surface. This display involved pouring water down a pipe which took it to the fiery depths below. The high temperature subsequently pushed the water back above the surface in an impressive tower of whooshing steam, known as a Geyser. Here you can also find another thermal exhibition, a natural stove which uses the volcanic heat to cook food- careful you don’t lose your sunglasses looking down though.
This display involved pouring water down a pipe which took it to the fiery depths below. The high temperature subsequently pushed the water back above the surface in an impressive tower of
whooshing steam, known as a Geyser. Here you can also find another thermal exhibition, a natural stove which uses the volcanic heat to cook food- careful you don’t lose your sunglasses looking down though.
Clambering back onto the bus, the journey continued, and we climbed higher and higher into the Montañas de Fuego (Fire Mountains), the driver brilliantly manoeuvred the vehicle up the steep and twisting roads above, even stopping and slowing in the right places to allow everyone to capture pictures and take in the unrivalled splendour of the scenery. As we jolted and zig-zagged over the rocky mountainside the guide continued his narration of the stunning environment outside. A breath-taking panorama filled the bus windows, and was almost the complete opposite of the postcard picture beaches of Lanzarote which we are all used to seeing. Smooth black rocks were followed by tiny sharp looking surfaces. Beyond that was rolling curves of sunset oranges and reds which looked like a beach that has been set on fire.
The bus then came to a halt for the next part of the day. It had just began to rain lightly and stepping off the bus we were met with the salty smell of the rain water as it spattered on the dusty surface under foot. Led patiently in a line before us was a group of camels, the iconic animal of Lanzarote. Traditionally used here to carry and transport grapes from the vineyards, many wineries in La Geria still use this method. This particular herd however, are now used for tourist rides.
Everyone was allocated a camel and climbed into specially made seats that rested either side of the animals hump, then placed our feet on the wooden bar below. We were then all strapped in by one of the Camelleros (handlers), and we were ready to go. I was surprised by how comfortable the seats were, each with a padded cushion to sit on.
Holding on tightly as the camels lurched and stood up from the ground, we were off. After the initial shock of the movement, it became easy to relax and the walking pace was slow and methodical as they worked their way along an obviously well-known and well-worn track. Although the ride felt safe and relaxing it was a strange feeling rather like being sat on a rickety bridge while it rocked as other people walked along it.
The camel trek was a brilliant way to take in more of the setting and added something different to the memories of the trip. For anyone who just wants to explore the park via a short camel ride, it is easy to find the Echadero de los Camellos in the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya. As you approach the visitor’s entrance, just turn into the large car park and you will see the camels waiting diligently for their next group of passengers.
The final stop on the day’s excursion was, of course, the vineyard. A great end to the day and it was interesting not only tasting the wines but learning about how they are grown in such untraditional circumstance. Having tasted the wines and explored the gift shop, where they sold not only the wines themselves but other volcanic gifts such as bracelets made of the stone from the Montañas de Fuego. To end our visit to the winery, before having to return to the coach, we headed outside to take a closer look at the grape vines, protected by their Zocos which carpeted the black gravelled landscape.
